Editing Briefing Trailer/Operations

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These instructions are in a preliminary form.
Please update them.
They likely do not have all the information people will need.

== Before leaving the firehall ==
=== Will you need more than the trailer? ===
Is there anything else you need to bring beside the trailer?
Common requests are:
* The SAR Truck, to haul it.  You'll need the keys from the Fire Hall cabinet.  See the separate checklist and instructions for that vehicle.
* A vehicle-mounted 2-way radio (mobile radio) for the truck driver.
* A generator, plus a 12-guage extension cord to keep the generator noise well away from the trailer.

=== Gather the keys ===
* The keys to the trailer are in the SAR cabinet upstairs in the firehall
** There are three keys on the ring.  
*** black plastic handle and a red mark is for the rear door
*** black plastic handle and no red mark is for the front door
*** silver key is for the cubbyhole accessible from the outside at front from either side
* The key to the trailer hitch is on a separate key chain.  I found it in the Mobile Command Post. ''This is not a very good place for it, as the MCP may be in a different place when the trailer needs to be moved.  If there's not a duplicate in the firehall cabinet, we may move it there.''
=== Inspect ===
Walk around the trailer looking for any  problems
* check for anything in the way
* note that there should be a block between the tires
* check the conditions of the tires
* verify the stabilizing feet are raised
* verify the steps to the two doors are folded away
* remove the hitch lock and place inside the trailer.  Keep the key with the hitch lock
Check inside to see if anything needs to be secured for movement.

=== Attach the truck ===
We often use the SAR Truck to haul the Briefing Trailer.
The truck is usually left attached to the Equipment Trailer because we most often need that first.
You'll need to disconnect it from the Equipment Trailer. (See separate instructions, if needed.)

* Carefully align and back the truck hitch ball to the corresponding socket on the trailer. This is much faster to do if you have someone outside to direct you.
** If necessary, raise the trailer socket so the ball can be positioned under it
** Park the truck with the ball under the hitch
* Release the hitch latch which will secure the ball into the socket
** Slide the latch towards the front and pull out the cotter pin
** Slide the latch towards the rear to open up room for the ball
* Lower the trailer socket onto the truck's hitch ball.  Visually inspect that it's fully seated.
* Move the latch forward and replace the cotter pin
* Raise the foot as far as it will go.
* Attach the safety chains to the truck hitch.  Many people recommend for additional safety that the chains be crossed.  Left chain goes to right side of hitch and vice versa.
* Connect the wiring cable into the socket at the rear of the truck
* Take the bricks that the foot was resting on and place in the trailer
* Take the block that's between the trailer tires and place in the trailer
* Secure the doors of the trailer
* Start the truck and test the signal lights.  Get out and check that the signals at the back of trailer work.

== Setup in field ==
=== Choose your spot ===
Choose a spot for the trailer.  You'll often compromise between competing requirements:
* enough room.  Consider that there's a pop-out on the left (driver's) side and an awning on the right side.
* easy to remove if the weather changes (rain, snow)
* facing outwards, so you don't have to turn it around under tougher conditions, and for a speedy evacuation if needed
* level ground
* in a quiet spot, if the trailer is going to be used for recooperation
* close to the action, if it's going to be used for briefing/debriefing
* close to power if available
* but if using a generator, placed so that the generator can be where noise isn't a problem
* oriented so that the doors, awning and sides of the trailer can be used for advantage

=== Park the trailer ===
* Make sure the truck is in park and turned off.
* Take the block you placed inside the trailer and put it between the trailer tires to prevent rolling
* Take the other blocks and place under the hitch.  Lower the foot to gently support the weight.  Do not over extend so as to lift the truck's hitch.

=== Detach the truck ===
Often the SAR Truck or other hauling truck will be needed for other purposes on the incident.
If it's not, it can be left attached to speed removal of the trailer.

* disconnect the wiring cable and wrap it where it will not drop into the mud, etc.
* disconnect the two safety chains
* release the hitch latch
** pull the cotter pin
** slide the latch toward the rear
** if it does not slide, the ball may be under tension because the hitch was raised too high.  Lower the hitch slightly by cranking the foot up
* crank the foot down until the socket is lifted clear of the hitch ball
* move the latch forward so you can replace the cotter pin
* carefully drive the truck away
=== Stabilize ===
Lower the 4 stabilizing feet in the 4 corners.
There is a cranking tool in the outside front right cubbyhole which can be used to twist a hex nut on each foot to lower or raise them.
Lower them enough to stabilize the trailer, but don't try to lift it off the the tires or level the trailer.
=== Open ===
Unlock the doors and lower the steps.

Extend the pop-out using the switch on the wall by the bathroom.

People can now enter and start using the trailer while you do other set up.

=== Bathroom set up ===
* Check the liquid levels by pressing the button on the stove hood
** The "black water" can't be full or there's no room for sewage
** The clear water can't be empty, or there's nothing to flush with
* Remove anything stored in the bathroom.
* Lower the blinds on the window for privacy
* Turn on pump using the switch on the stove hood
The system may be winterized by having the water replaced by antifreeze.
The toilet can still be used, but the fluid will appear pink.
=== Power ===
Electricity can be brought to the trailer.  The connector is on the outside at the left (driver's side) rear.  The connector is special.  There's a cable that adapts that to a standard 3-ping 120V connector.  The cable is stored in the outside cubbyhole on the left (driver's side) front.

The cable is not very long, so you'll likely need an extension cord to reach a building supply or a generator which has been position away to avoid noise.  ''The extension cord should be a minimum of 12-guage''' (or less -- larger numbers are thinner) to handle the load of for instance running a heater.  Otherwise the extension cable may heat up and cause a hazard.

A generator is not stored in the Briefing Trailer.  We have one in the Equipment Trailer.

=== Battery ===
If external electricity is not brought to the trailer, some things can still be run on battery.

There is a display on the inside wall by the rear door that shows the charge level of the battery.  It's recharged by a solar panel on the roof or by connecting external electricity.

The battery  will run the lights and move the pop-out.
It won't provide 120V to the electrical outlets.

== To do ==
* verify we have extra copies of keys
** 3 different keys to trailer
** hitch lock keys

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Editing Briefing Trailer/Operations

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@@ Line 98: / Line 98: @@
 * Remove anything stored in the bathroom.
 * Lower the blinds on the window for privacy
-* open up the roof vent
 * Turn on pump using the switch on the stove hood
 The system may be winterized by having the water replaced by antifreeze.
 The toilet can still be used, but the fluid will appear pink.
-=== Seating ===
-Additional folding chairs are in the cabinet by the front door.
 === Power ===
 Electricity can be brought to the trailer.  The connector is on the outside at the left (driver's side) rear.  The connector is special.  There's a cable that adapts that to a standard 3-ping 120V connector.  The cable is stored in the outside cubbyhole on the left (driver's side) front.
-The cable is not very long, so you'll likely need an extension cord to reach a building supply or a generator which has been position away to avoid noise.  '''The extension cord should be a minimum of 12-guage''' (or less -- larger numbers are thinner) to handle the load of for instance running a heater.  Otherwise the extension cable may heat up and cause a hazard.
+The cable is not very long, so you'll likely need an extension cord to reach a building supply or a generator which has been position away to avoid noise.  ''The extension cord should be a minimum of 12-guage''' (or less -- larger numbers are thinner) to handle the load of for instance running a heater.  Otherwise the extension cable may heat up and cause a hazard.
 A generator is not stored in the Briefing Trailer.  We have one in the Equipment Trailer.
-With external power, the electrical sockets will provide 120V as expected.  The power bars may need to be turned on.
 === Battery ===
@@ Line 122: / Line 115: @@
 The battery  will run the lights and move the pop-out.
 It won't provide 120V to the electrical outlets.
-=== Fridge and Freezer ===
-The fridge and freezer can be turned on using switches above them.
-They function if external electricity is supplied.
-There also appears to be a setting for using gas which hasn't been explored.
-=== Awning ===
-The awning can be extended over the doors and to create an area protected from the sun and rain (light elements).
-The directions have not clearly worked out for extend it.
-There appears to be a latch on each arm as well as a screw release.
-The awning roll has a mechanism that controls which way it ratchets.
-There is a long rod in the outside right (passenger side) front cubbyhole that is designed to reach up to mechanism and switch the ratchet so it will release the awning.
-It may take two or three people in concert to extend the awning.
 == To do ==
@@ Line 138: / Line 120: @@
 ** 3 different keys to trailer
 ** hitch lock keys
-* get 12-guage extension cord(s)
-** 1 to store with Briefing Trailer
-** 1 to store with generator