User:Brett Wuth/Running Notes/2011-04

From PCSAR

Contents 1 2011-04-05 2 2011-04-10 3 2011-04-11 4 2011-04-13 5 2011-04-17 6 2011-04-20 7 2011-04-26 8 2011-04-27 9 2011-04-30

[edit] 2011-04-05

documents:

• 2011-04-05 evening training bear videos pcsar
• 2011-04-05 evening training predator handout confidential pcsar
• 2011-04-05 PCSAR cheque 1014 confidential pcsar

[edit] 2011-04-10

Marking retired ropes:

http://www.voea.vic.edu.au/publications/e-news/2007/may2007.html http://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&q=cache:stGebTb1NvEJ:www.oeasa.on.net/pdf/journal/on25-4.pdf+marking+retired+rope&hl=en&pid=bl&srcid=ADGEEShgRDzvfe1_MTWmohJXs-SZOb_2vCLjrw5ZlU5BWBDz88p1Uj4xyaJRWdkBwfjGjzpI2PwANmCwN92UbNq1foHsHLy8Kpf3pmvTdQe4bhudfsvzNzhs0Fk-mD16VSgAg_R6-O1S&sig=AHIEtbTLJZbx_I-feiVKNkAATcLfzyruzQ

• no holes punched in it - in service rope does have
• dipped in red paint
• wrapped in black electrical tape

http://www.livestrong.com/article/110759-retire-rock-climbing-rope/

• red electrical tape

http://www.etsca.com/convention04/Ropes%20Course%20Manual.doc

• carabiners marked in red tape

Markers on rope:

• purpose markers are sold by manufactures
  • http://www.dailyclimbingtips.com/gear/5-ways-to-mark-the-middle-of-your-rope/
• UIAA warns against using other types of markers
  • http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en-us/journal/climb/qclab/qc-lab-can-i-use-a-sharpie-to-mark-the-middle-of-my-rope
  • http://wiki.tradgirl.com/Will_using_a_magic_marker_to_mark_my_rope_weaken_it%3F
• Blue Water recommends a Sharpie"rub a dub" laundry marking pen
  • http://www.bluewaterropes.com/home/faqs.asp

Safe Working Load to MBS translation:

• http://www.sterlingrope.com/media/document/techmanual.pdf

[edit] 2011-04-11

documents:

• PCSAR yellow rope shipping bag tag
• PCSAR yellow spec card
• PCSAR yellow rope guarantee
• Sterling rope care, use, retirement manual
• PCSAR blue rope shipping tag
• PCSAR blue rope specsheet
• PCSAR blue rope guarantee

[edit] 2011-04-13

[edit] 2011-04-17

documents:

• cheque 980 confidential pcsar

[edit] 2011-04-20

13:35 call into Telus system

line has to be terminated

$31/month currently

land line with advanced call forwarding option $84/month

one time fee $75/month

10 business days to set up

$25 for one time change.

2011-04-20 14:04

Telus

Heather

updated for Friday.

$25 charge.

[edit] 2011-04-26

Researching Petzl I'D

• http://www.petzl.com/en/pro/self-braking-descenders/id-l
  • "I'D L"
  • red
  • 11.5 to 13 mm rope
    • won't handle our 11mm rope
  • NFPA 1983 G
  • http://www.petzl.com/files/all/technical-notice/Pro/D20L-IDL.pdf
    • rated for rope ascess descent and belaying
    • rescue evacution (pg 4)
    • belay max 100kg load (pg 5) or 272kg (pg6) but unclear whether valid for belay lowering or only belay raise
    • requires 2 operators for 2 person lower (100kg) (pg 6) compare pg 4 (150kg)
• http://www.petzl.com/en/pro/self-braking-descenders/id-s
• gold
• 10 to 11.5 mm rope

• http://www.firehouse.com/forums/showthread.php?t=104769
  • good discussion of use in rescue belay

[edit] 2011-04-27

Confirmed 2262 forwarded to correct number.

[edit] 2011-04-30

CMC Rescue MPD

• http://www.indyarocks.com/videos/The-MPD--CMC-Rescue-Multi-Purpose-Device-1278741
• http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-hnKLj9NpUI&feature=related
• http://www.cmcrescue.com/product.php?CatalogID=1&dept_id=20660&rootNode=0&pid=3&PHPSESSID=839a59a27a0ec9e47c0aea5706e67e04
• http://www.cmcrescue.com/prod_instruction/3330X0.00.042011.pdf?PHPSESSID=839a59a27a0ec9e47c0aea5706e67e04
  • only 13mm and 11mm versions
• http://www.cmcrescue.com/prod_techinfo/MPD%20User%20Manual%203330X0.00.030711.pdf?PHPSESSID=839a59a27a0ec9e47c0aea5706e67e04
  • pg 6, share tension lowering, suggested belay requires active intervention
• $650

The MPD looks very interesting. My concerns:

• each model fits only one size of rope
• cost $650
• I wasn't seeing how easy it was to adjust tension on a lower